Link to Tagalong24 Member’s website page for Lightning Ridge
Getting there
It was a fairly easy BUT very bumpy 196km drive up the Castlereagh Highway from Coonamble to Lightning Ridge. The road was so rough that our travelling buddy’s caravan actually left the asphalt one one of the bumps (a bit scary).
Stanley the Emu
Make sure you check out Stanley the Emu, which is about 5kms south of the turnoff to Lightning Ridge. Standing 18metres tall, Stanley is crafted from old VW beetles and satellite dishes atop steel girders, it was designed and built by local artist John Murray. It’s such an iconic piece of art and even has his own Facebook page.
The Gateway
There’s a great gateway which greets travellers as they turn off the Castlereagh Highway toward Lightning Ridge…
One thing for sure is that Lightning Ridge has so much to offer as far as attractions, mine tours, great sunsets. It’s one of those place that you should include on your “must visit” list of fascinating places in Australia.
Accommodation
The BIG4 Opal Caravan Park is located at 142 Pandora Street Lightning Ridge, which is just 2kms out of town, but within walking distance of the famous Lightning Ridge Artesian Bore Baths.
It’s a good caravan park, but its a real challenge getting your pegs into the hard gravel.
There’s a great firepit and lovely grassy area for our happy hours, where we had some fun games. They seem a bit silly but REALLY brings out the competitive nature in some people and provides plenty of laughs from the spectators.
Car Door Tours
A great way to check out some of the quirkiness of Lightning Ridge is to visit the Tourist Information Centre and grab a copy of the Car Door Tours Map.
These 4 ‘self drive’ tours really are a fantastic way to start your visit to The Ridge and the four tours are demarcated by colour coded and numbered car doors:
These 4 ‘self drive’ tours really are a fantastic way to start your visit to The Ridge and the four tours are demarcated by colour coded and numbered car doors:
Blue –Highlights of the Blue Car Door Tour include the Walk-in-Mine which offers self-guided tours down an opal mine and Bevan’s Black Opal & Cactus Nursery with over 2300 species of cacti.
Red –The Red Car Door Tour will take you through a number of opal fields including Hatter’s Flat, Pony Fence and the Telephone Line fields. The tour also includes Amigo’s Castle and Kangaroo Hill.
Green –This tour will take you through various opal fields, including the multi-billion dollar Coocoran Opal Fields (mined 1988 to 1996).
Yellow –This tour allows the visitor to see first-hand various pieces of opal mining equipment as you drive through the various opal fields which include the 3 Mile Opal Field and Lunatic Hill. There are many rusting relics to be seen on this tour. Without doubt, the highlight of this tour is the ‘Chamber of the Black Hand.’ This is both an opal mine and a sculpture gallery.
Here’s some examples of the Car Door Tour signs we saw as we took the respective tours…
Opal Mine Adventure
The Opal Mine Adventure was our 1st opal mine tour as it was a “walk in” mine with great reviews on TripAdvisor. It’s a self guided type of tour where you get to learn about the elusive black opal and how they mine for opal on various videos. It’s also a lot cheaper than some of the other mine tours.
Bevans Black Opal & Cactus Nursery
Located on Stop 7 of the Blue Car Door Tour (view map) , Bevan’s Cactus Nursery is home to the world’s only opal mining cactus farmers. Started in 1966, and now encompassing two passionate generations, Bevan’s host one of the largest cactus nurseries in the southern hemisphere with approximately 2,500 young and aged varieties. Grown from seeds collected from around the world, many plants are now well over 100 years old, with the oldest being nearly 150.
There’s some pretty spectacular plants around this large cactus garden…
Around the Town
It’s not a big town but Lightning Ridge is an “interesting” place to visit. It’s grown due to the opal mining and it’s pretty rustic. There’s a fair bit of street art around the town by the fantastic local artist, John Murray (more below)
John Murray Art Gallery
You cannot visit Lightning Ridge without checking out the John Murray Art Gallery. This man’s art is one of the outback’s favourite painters, here you can view the brilliant landscapes and characters first hand.
The contrasting landscapes of the Australian Outback are portrayed in photo realistic detail with humour and whimsy. Head in and browse the large range of original paintings, prints (canvas, mounted, framed, posters), cards and souvenirs.
The John Murray Art Gallery is located 8 Opal Street Lightning Ridge.
I have included a few images of his art below…
Fantastic Sunset
There’s a spot called Nettleton’s First Shaft Lookout, at at the end of the Green Car Door tour, which is renowned as a perfect sunset location. So, we packed some nibbles, drinks & chairs and off we all went to check it out. The views looking West over the Coocoran Opal Fields provided the perfect photos and certainly justified the dusty track you take to get there (maplink).
Chambers of the Black Hand tour
The story behind the creation of this outstanding mine’s gallery is really amazing. Ron Canlin is the mastermind and extraordinary artist behind each and every carving in the Chambers of the Black Hand. The Chambers were originally dug to search for opal, but with years of digging and no luck on the opal front, Ron discovered that the walls were perfect for intricate carvings.
He used nothing but a blunt butter knife to carve every single piece of art that is on the walls today, and opened the Chambers to the public in 1997. What’s left of that very butter knife is even on display in the Chambers.
The endless walls of insanely detailed carvings must be seen to be truly believed. There’s over 900 individual sculptures making up the Chambers of the Black Hand, each one carved by hand, by Ron Canlin. They are grouped into the ‘Chambers’ – 26 different chambers each with a unique theme. From Egypt to Australiana, Under the Sea, ‘Fantasy’ and Famous Faces, you will find something that sparks your personal interest.
Located about 4kms from Lightning Ridge and is stop #5 on the Yellow Car Door Tour. They have 2 tours – Chambers & Opal mine and cost $48 each or package deal of $85 (as at May 2024). Book via their website.
Yellow Door Tour
Following our Chambers of the Black Hand tour, we headed further out along the Yellow Car Door tour to check out some of the sights. One of the 1st places we came across is the massive development for the new Australian Opal Centre being built over a huge area, but most of it will be underground based on an environmental sensitive concept.
Further along the route we came across air vents sticking out of the earth, assuming they provide air to the mine shafts and tunnels below. It makes you wonder how safe it is driving over what could be people digging away in a tunnel beneath you 😟!
There were also places where old and abandoned rusty cars and machinery which must have been left behind after someone either leaving rich or poor following the search for the elusive black opal.
Red Car Door Tour
These car door tours are really a great way to check out the areas surrounding Lightning Ridge. There’s so many stories to discover. The Ridge Castle was an unusual home from stone & flagons.
My visit to the Black Queen Bottle House (see below) meant that Amigo’s Castle was closed by the time I got there, which was so disappointing, as I really wanted to check it out (took some photos over the fence). There’s an interesting story about Vittorio Stefanato (Amigo) who built this amazing home. I read that Vittorio Stefanato was sentenced in 2023 for murdering Christine Neilan at Lightning Ridge in 2020
Black Queen Bottle House
Travelling along the Red Car Door tour I pulled up at the extraordinary Black Queen and was met by Gale Collins, the passionate owner of this establishment. Paying $10 for a guided tour of the house by Gale was totally worth it. I’s located about 2kms from town (maplink).
The house was built with 14,000 coloured bottles by local woman Joan Andrews, who, while in her 60s and recovering from breast cancer, fashioned it by hand. Joan Andrews was inducted into the Pioneer Woman’s Hall of Fame on her 88th birthday.
As the open of the bottles point toward the outside you can actually see frogs taking up residence in some of them. When Joan Andrews buried her dog in the backyard she built a large round bottle memorial to it, something that her late husband didn’t get when he died (a rather funny fact).
3 Pubs in the Scrub
It may be a 70km trip (one way) west of Lightning Ridge to check out the Three Pubs in the Scrub but it was really worth it. They are remote, ramshackle and probably home to a snake or two. The beer comes in cans, the schnitzel comes in portions the size of your head and everything else comes with a tall tale attached.
We visited the Glengarry Hilton, Grawin Club in the Scrub and Sheepyard Inn and all had their own version of outback quirkiness.
Last minute Artesian Hot Springs swim
On our last night, after packing up our campsite, some of the boys headed off to the famous Lightning Ridge Artesian Hot Springs for a dip.
The water comes from the Great Artesian Basin and is approximately two million years old! Natural pressure sends the water to the surface through an artesian bore and it maintains a temperature of between 40 to 50 degrees Celsius.
IT’S OVER!
Well, Lightning Ridge saw the end of this year’s Tagalong24. I hope that all of the “Tagalongers” had a great time and have great memories of what (we’d like to think) was another successful Tagalong. Looking forward to the next one!
Neil & Merrisa Alexander
BUT… there is a bit more. As the Tagalongers all headed off toward further adventures, we took the long way home to Melbourne. There’s one more post covering this trip too.